Tuesday, January 30, 2007

Some New Friends

I'm preparing to leave New Zealand in just a couple of days. Here's a last look at the places I've been and the new friends I've made who have hosted me in their homes (ordered chronologically):

Tamzin & Joe - Auckland
Kath - Hamilton
Diane - Taupo
Jeff & Pauline (Family friends) - Paraparaumu
Kamel's HC Hosts - Granity
Gary
Kamel's HC Hosts - Invercargill
Ross - Dunedin
Kirsty - Christchurch
The Sherwoods (Wonderful Strangers) - Wairau Valley
Jennie - St. Arnaud

And of course, my many new friends made at the Collective.

Sunday, January 21, 2007

Only a few days left

There's good news and there's bad news. The bad news is that shortly after fixing my camera, it broke again, in a different way. Something is spinning loose inside. I can probably fix it later but I'll won't be able to record my second trip through the South Island. Which leads me to the good news, I've been traveling and CouchSurfing through the South Island for some days now with another CouchSurfer, a French/Moroccan nomad named Kamel.

I've seen the west coast again, stopping for the night in Granity (a town of 300) and Greymouth, two nights in Wanaka, then down through to Invercargill for two nights. Invercargill, the southernmost city in New Zealand is home to Burn Munroe who I wrote about earlier. The Southlander who hosted us was less impressed with Anthony Hopkin's accent than the Aucklander I mentioned, by the way. From there we've headed back north along the east coast, and today I write from a public internet terminal in Dunedin.

We spent one evening at a hostel in Greymouth, which was the first and likely the last night that I've needed to pay for accomodation in New Zealand. Isn't that incredible? It's not about the cash, though I'm glad for the savings. But in comparison to all of my other accomodations, the hostel was the least interesting evening. Transportation for this trip has been entirely hitchhiking, which has been extremely easy and fascinating. Highlights include a 10K ride with 5 dogs and a baby pig in small 4 seater car with a young hippy couple.

Next stop, the city of Christchurch, New Zealand's second largest, and then St. Arnaud, a tiny town next to a national park. Afterwards, I'll spend my remaining few days back at the Collective in Nelson. This post has contained a lot of names of places meaningless to you now. I hope to tell the tales of this places later. Just wanted to catch you up. I will have several photos to post when I return home to SF - thanks for all the compliments! Hopefully, I'll get a couple more blog posts in too.

I'm at the point in my long adventure when the reality that it must end soon had fallen upon me. It adds a mixture of poignency and urgency to my days. I won't be sorry to return home, but very sorry to leave. New Zealand seems to be all the best of once were times in the history of the US: A cheerfully relaxed attitude of constant progress, an earnest regard for neighbors and strangers alike, a liberetarian bent, progressive and peace leaning politics, a safe and relatively violence free environment, a home-spun and locally based economy, and an vast ecotopia.

But all of this is changing rapidly, especially on the last two counts. New Zealand's natural resources have been preserved not through wise politics but through sheer lack of population. Corporatism is taking hold here as well, driving out consumer choice and local flavor. No dire predictions here, but I will be very interested to return here in 10 years and see if they have escaped the pitfalls the US has blundered into.

More to come...

Monday, January 08, 2007

Latest Trip Map

Click on the illustration to see where I went on the camping trip. I did quite a bit of driving, and driving on the left is fun. My next goal is to travel South again and do some more CouchSurfing.

Sunday, January 07, 2007

Fixing My Life

I tried to repair my camera when it first broke. I knew it was a mechanical problem, not an electronic one. The retractable lens had stopped coming out. At first I took out all of the visible screws and still couldn't figure out how to get into it, so I put it back together. Then I tried again and realized that it has a tricky way of interlocking the front, back, top, together. That got me past the outer housing. I was really wary of breaking a cable, and there are two connecting the screen to the main unit. Of course, the main unit and screen were now no longer held together by the housing, and twisting them incorrectly could have snapped the cable. Plus getting into the main unit looked really daunting. So I put it back together again with some difficulty. It turns out that re-interlocking the major parts is harder than unlocking them.

Next I tried to find a repair shop, but the only camera place that could repair it was in Auckland, and the turn around time would have been too slow to bother. So by New Years I had given up on having a working camera while in New Zealand.

But after badly wishing I had it during my last camping trip, I decided to give another try at repairing it myself. So yesterday I sat down to it determined that I could at least take it completely apart without breaking it. Again I removed the housing, then took out the screws from the main unit. That fell apart into two pieces connected by a tiny cable, one of which was connected to the screen by two tiny cables. The other peice was the lens unit, which came apart after I took a few more screws out. I now had a tray of screws lined up in the order that they had come out. When I took apart the lens unit, a pile of beach sand spilled out. That was culprit! Once again I put it back together, but in the process managed to drop one of the tiny screws essential to the process.

Arg! A single screw the size of a grain of rice would mean I'd never get the camera back together. I had dropped it into a wilderness of carpet from off a desktop. It could have bounced anywhere. Note to self: don't repair a camera in a carpeted room. But I knew that it was certainly in the room somewhere. After 30 minutes of careful searching on hands and knees, I found the screw. I never did see it, but found it by feel. First I carefully searched my clothes, the removed the chair and desk from the area, then gridded off the carpet and ran my hands across it row by row.

I finally got the camera back together and turned it on, but the lens still didn't come out. I knew that I had made progress though by the sound. It sounded different - like something was whirring inside instead of jamming inside. Once again I took it apart and noticed that two little gears where misaligned. I fixed that, put it back together, turned it on and now the lens came out, but the screen was blank! I took it apart again and realized that somehow despite my care I had severed the cable connecting the screen to the main unit. Now I really despaired. After all that trouble, I had actually repaired the original problem only to be thwarted at the last minute by the mistake I had taken pains to avoid from the beginning.

But the cable didn't look snapped after all. The end was too clean. I figured that it had actually slid out of a port on the main unit. I could have slid it out from the beginning. Finally I slid the cable back into the port, reassembled the camera, turned it on and hallelujah! It works again! And here is the first thing I photographed:

Another Insane Sunset

The lesson here is that with extreme care, extreme patience, and extreme tenacity, you can fix most of life's problems.

Saturday, January 06, 2007

Free Walker

What an amazing week. I thought that I would just spend two days at the music festival, but we decided to keep the trip going for a week and went as far south as the Fox Glacier. I'm am refreshed. I got everything I was looking for a more. I'm glad to be back in the comforts of this house that just a week ago I couldn't wait to leave. Back in Nelson there are new faces and new ideas brewing.

I love this country. The adventures I've had here this past week could never have happened in the US because they would have been prohibited for no good reason. I couldn't have built a slept by a campfire on the beach that I built from driftwood I found there. A ranger would have woken me up instead of the glorious sun reflecting from softly breaking waves. I couldn't have provided a ride to two kiwi hitchhikers (illegal in many of our states) who gave me invaluable perspectives on the New Zealand zeitgeist. I couldn't have washed my face in the pool of a 1000' waterfall of glacier melt in solitude because I'd be surrounded by 100 other tourists. I couldn't have hiked off trail around the Glacier because it would be prohibited for my safety. I don't say this to US bash but to tell you how great it is here.

Since I can't show you pretty pictures (they exist in the cameras of my friends), I'll share some words. Government should exist on one simple principle - it is here to grant us freedoms not to take them away. Our government prohibits us ostensibly for our protection (NZ's too, just less so). But in reality, it's not for our protection but for liability reasons. If we hurt ourselves, we can sue the state for not trying to prohibit us. In New Zealand, there's no need to sue (and indeed it's difficult) because health care is provided.

Imagine a country where all laws and boundaries are optional. In 90% of places and circumstances, if we hurt ourselves or fail to provide for ourselves, the government provides for free the services to keep us healthy. In 8% of places or circumstances, such as entering undeveloped wilderness or driving without a seatbelt, the government warns us that it will not provide services for free. But it will send rescue to the wilderness and it will repair our mangled body at our expense. In 2% of cases, such as engaging in a truly dangerous pursuit, it won't even promise to rescue us. It says, do what you will, but you're on your own.

We went off trail at the glaciers and went past signs that said, "Danger! You should only proceed beyond this point with an experienced guide." I'll tell you that I went far beyond that point but never came close to exceeding my personal limits or putting myself in danger. I've spend years exploring nature and know how to test my weight on a rock, check for slipperiness, observe my surroundings and know my limits. The secluded waterfalls and jungle paths I explored with my friends were not suitable for many who have never left the safety of a sidewalk. But there were safe for us. We could have even climbed the glacier itself but we knew the ice is slipper and unstable. But it safe for those with proper equipment and knowledge of the stable patches of ice. Thankfully, New Zealand recognizes that I'm responsible for the risks I take and doesn't prohibit me from taking them.

We ran into an professional guide who chastised us for walking on a well maintained and safe but not idiot-proof path without paying for his services. It was his legal responsibility to warn us, and I'm happy that he did. But his tone of superiority and derision was unnecessary. After warning us he switched on his radio and said, "We've got free walkers on the trail." He didn't mean it as a compliment, but I took it as one. Free Walker. I want that to be my life's job title.

Saturday, December 30, 2006

Leaving Collective for Two Nights

We watched "The World's Fastest Indian" the night before last. A feel-good movie set in New Zealand made in 2005 that seems like it was made in 1985. Watching the movie reminded me of a story that my friends, the Wendies, told me about reading a book about Burning Man while at Burning Man. It's laughably absurd.

The situation here is a bit different. It was totally fun to sip wine and watch the film with my friends here at Collective and call out the obvious bits of Kiwiana, like the scene with the plastic tomato that hold ketchup. We also had a Kiwi present who we asked to rate Anthony Hopkin's accent. Verdict: very authentic!

But I'm even more excited about leaving Nelson for a couple of nights and seeing more of New Zealand with my own eyes. I'm headed to the Phat outdoor electronic music festival for New Years, and I'm not taking the laptop :))

Friday, December 29, 2006

On Xmas eve we had some piƱata fun. Here's me holding my trophy. In case you've ever wondered, Santa is filled with candy and whistley toys.